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What's the Skinny - On the Fat Wooden Barrel
Deschutes Brewery’s wooden barrel-aging program placed a footprint all over its territory once again with the latest Reserve Series release, The Abyss. The immeasurably deep imperial stout stormed from retailers shelves like lightning, leaving many to wonder: Is there any more? And where did this “nectar” come from?
We will save the “more” question for later. Let’s first build a little suspense combined with a healthy thirst.
The tradition of wooden barrel-aged beer coincides with the beginnings of beer brewing itself. Long ago, in a distant land, beer was brewed, fermented, conditioned, and served from the same wooden barrel. Technological advances allowed brewers to move towards multiple vessel systems constructed initially of copper and, now, stainless steel. The ingenious craft brewing community has rekindled this centuries-old tradition en route to more delicious beer for all of us! “In the last five years, there’s been a huge push all over the country,” says Jake Harper, Barrelmaster for the Brewery. One need only look at the Great American Beer Festival’s growing number of barrel-aged beer categories, he suggests. And Deschutes Brewery has never been shy about trying something new that was once old!
Our barrel-aged beer program officially began in the year 2000 with the barrel conditioning of Jubel 2000. A double IPA known as Double Bail Quail Imperial IPA was created the following year. The program then rested for a short time while other projects were pursued. Two years ago, Jake Harper was anointed Deschutes Brewery’s first official Barrelmaster. In his capable carpenter-like hands, our wooden barrel inventory now numbers about fifty barrels. They come from lands near and far: Pinot Noir barrels from vineyards in the Willamette Valley such as Domaine Drouhin and King Estate, Bourbon barrels from Jack Daniels® and Makers Mark® in Kentucky (where they can be used once only) and, French Oak barrels produced by Francois Freres Cooperage here in Oregon. The now legendary Mirror Mirror Barleywine of 2005 was our first barrel-aged beer available in a bottle as part of our Reserve Series.
The Abyss was in the unenviable “sequel spot.” Unlike most movie sequels though, The Abyss gathered its own glory. Licorice, molasses, and vanilla bean additions created flavor complexity in the kettle. This royal stout was split to age in Pinot Noir, Bourbon, and stainless steel barrels separately. All three were then blended to produce the elixir known as The Abyss. It knows no bounds!
The Abyss elicited passionate responses from all over the territory. Here are a few samples:
“Something magical happened to me the other dayit was called The Abyss…It is literally the best beer I’ve ever had…Kudos to Deschutes for knocking my socks off, yet again. May the magic continue...” - Morgan McGinn, Seattle, WA
“I realize the implications of the word ‘Reserve’ in ‘Reserve Series’ but please, please, please brew more of ‘The Abyss’ in the future. I have three bottles left in my cellar and it would make me cry if those were my last three bottles ever. You’ve created an Imperial Stout to rival the best in the world!” - Joe Potter, Colbert, WA
“I impulse-bought a 22 of The Abyss a few hours ago and I do believe that it is the best beer I have drunk this year. Never have I made such satisfying noises after my first sip. Thanks!” - Richard Hartnell Bellingham, WA
“…you guys have REALLY blown me away! You have made THE BEST American ale I’ve ever had. I am talking about The Abyss. This imp stout is absolutely stunning!…The flavor is MIND-BLOWING! - Steve, Wheat Ridge, CO
“I loved The Abyss…Will The Abyss ever come back? Keep up the great brews!” - Mike Doll, Portland, OR
Excellent question, Mike. Never fear! We have brewed more Abyss. It is aging in those wooden barrels now. With the assistance of our very talented crew at The Brewery and a blessing from the beer gods, it should be ready in February of 2008. Our Barrelmaster, Jake Harper, and our new Assistant Barrelmaster, Bruce MacPhee (pictured above), remind us this vintage will not be identical to the 2006 version. They said this with a grin on their faces and a glint in their eyes, and added, “It will be better.” Inconceivable!
For those of you already looking ahead to our 2007 Reserve Series, we will take a detour through Belgium this November with the release of an Oud Bruin (aka a Belgian Sour Brown Ale), rumored to include a sour cherry fermentation. Don’t miss it! |