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Archive for the ‘Food & Beer’ Category

We Love Beer

Friday, February 26th, 2010

Here at Deschutes Brewery, we love beer.  No matter the color, flavor, alcohol content, or origin, we are willing to give it a try.  This attitude, this willingness to step outside the box and try things others aren’t interested in, has created brews that are original in their styles and flavor, such as The Abyss, The Dissident, Red Chair NWPA, and Hop Henge Experimental IPA.

“As far as ingredients and recipes go, we can try pretty much anything we want,” says Paul Arney, head brewer at the Bend Public House.  “Thanks to Gary Fish (owner) and Larry Sidor (brewmaster), and their commitment to quality, we are able to try unconventional methods, which often result in a delicious beer we never could have discovered.”

Access to four brewhouses doesn’t hurt either.  The Bend pub, with its 12-barrel English style system, is better suited for developing more traditional ales, such as Bachelor Bitter, Rooster Cream Ale, and test batches of the reserve series like Black Butte XXII.  Cam O’Conner, head brewer at our Portland Public House, works with a 20-barrel German brewhouse and can create incredible lagers and more traditional German beers such as Miss Spelt Hefeweizen.  Using these smaller brewhouses to test materials and develop recipes gives Deschutes an advantage in churning out creative new beers to satisfy our thirsty customers.  Once a recipe has been dialed in, it can move onto the 50-barrel JV brewhouse or 150-barrel Huppmann system, both located at our production facility.

Keeping with our unconventional methods, Deschutes Brewery uses some innovative ingredients to keep taste buds intrigued.  “We have been working with Theo Chocolate in Seattle for Black Butte XXII test batches.  They are the only organic, fair-trade, cocoa nib to chocolate bar factory in the country, extremely high quality,” says Arney.  “The addition of fresh Seville orange with the chocolate in a beer, we may be the only brewery around to try that.  We’re also doing chili pepper experiments, to see what kind of spicy flavor attributes we can get from that.”  Other chili beers have been experimented with at Deschutes, such as Ancho Oh Be Joyful, which was a huge hit in the summer of 2009.

Other beers brewed with unconventional ingredients have been found at the pub, such as Phil’s Trail Ale which has the surprising addition of Meadowsweet.  “This herb smells just like snowbrush, which grows wild here in Central Oregon.  On an early morning out mountain biking on Phil’s Trail, you can just smell the snowbrush in the air.  We wanted this beer to have that quality,” says Arney.

Bold and hoppy brews such as Hop Henge, an 8.75% experimental IPA uses cane sugar instead of more malt to create balance but allow the five pounds of hops per barrel to power through.  Doc Holliday, a Belgian brown was fermented with huckleberries for a mild tartness, and the Plum Bob uses traditional English Pale Ale ingredients, other than the addition of plum extract which adds a funky zing to the flavor.

Deschutes Brewery Barrel Aged Beers“With that beer, we wanted to try and get sourness without oak aging,” Arney says between sips of the tart concoction.

Barrel aging is another tool which is becoming more common to create new dimensions of flavor and also evoke a sour aspect in beer.  Deschutes now has hundreds of oak barrels in their library, some stained with bourbon and pinot noir.  Wild yeast, such as lactobacillus or brettanomyces, resides in these barrels and over a year or two’s time will transform a beer into a mouth puckering treat.  Additions of fruit, such as cherries in The Dissident, create a balanced beer that is flavorful and satisfying.

Deschutes continues to lead the industry in high quality, inspired beers. Check the pubs and the website for release parties and to find out what’s pouring near you.

- Laurel Bennett
Deschutes Brewery Bend Pub Server

Simple, Humble Perfection

Wednesday, December 23rd, 2009

John Foyston and Gary Fish

I attended a beer dinner the other night.  It has taken me a few days to digest (pun intended) exactly what happened.  This was a fundraiser for Morrison Children and Family Services in Portland.  A description of their services follows.

The event was deemed “Chef’s Challenge” in that seven of Portland’s finest chefs would combine their talents to pair their dishes with Deschutes’ beers in a very friendly competition.  I was lucky enough to be one of the judges of this august contest, at least I thought.

Along with me as judge was John Foyston, noted retiring beer columnist for the Oregonian; Cole Danehower, of Northwest Palate Magazine; Amy Faust, of The Wolf 99.7 FM; and Alan Kropf, of Mutineer Magazine.

The evening started off innocently enough with a trio of appetizers from Deschutes Brewery’s own Chef Jeff Usinowicz, who made Cortes Island Oysters on the half shell with a hop infused ponzu sauce, quail egg yolk, and tabiko caviar and the first, Ale Pretzel with a warm chantrelle mushroom taleggio cheese sauce for the second and a hop and lime marinated wild gulf prawn with a mango glaze.  All paired with Cascade Ale.  This was a delightful way to begin and a great palate conditioner.  Then things began to get serious.

Chef Pascal Chureau of Fenouil prepared a Rabbit Loin Crepinette with Chantrelles Faro Risotto, Bone Marrow Butter and Maple Syrup and Bourbon Gastrique paired with Miss Spelt Hefeweizen.  Everything went very quiet at the judges table.  We all agreed that whatever the flavor of Bone Marrow Butter actually was, it was a huge hit and the only criticism was there should have been more of it on the dish.  Admittedly, I was not excited about the pairing on this one at first.  But after trying it the pairing was done brilliantly!  The esters of the yeast and husky graininess of the spelt knitted perfectly with the rabbit and even the marrow butter.  We were off and running for sure.

Next, Chef Adam Berger from our neighbor Ten 01 paired our D Straat Dubel with House made duck and hazelnut sausage with cranberries.  This was done in a much more Germanic preparation, but, again, a brilliant pairing.  The sausage was laid on a bed of cooked red cabbage with cranberries on the side.  The sausage was sprinkled with crushed hazelnuts and tangy salt.  The fruity sweetness of the Dubel worked its way into the tanginess of the cabbage – no doubt cooked with vinegar – and the sweet tanginess of the cranberries with the soft gaminess of the duck sausage and, finally, the salty, nutty hazelnuts all touched every sensory gland in my mouth.  I was beginning to sense this event was, truly, something special.

Next came Chef Paul Bachand from Farm to Fork prepared a Smoked Trout, Leek and Potato Mason Jar Pie, with Fresh Herb and Winter Radish Salad.  Going in I didn’t know what a Mason Jar Pie was, but I sure learned.  Resembling a Pot Pie, it was comfort food on steroids.  Soft, warm and savory with the smokiness of the trout, the pie was accompanied by an herb (mostly frisee) and winter radish salad.  Taken all together it paired (again) brilliantly with the Long Shadow Black IPA, contrasting perfectly with the beers bright herbal hoppiness and the roasted astringency of the malt it was another of many surprises for me that evening.  I think it was at this point that John Foyston turned to me and said, “We are so screwed!” Of course referring to the inevitable judgment we would be required to make.

The next course was from Chef Kurt Spak of Alba Osteria.  He paired Jubelale with  Agnolotti al Plin with Oregon Black Truffles.  This turned out to be my favorite of the dishes that evening.  Of course, it’s wonderful to do a dinner in truffle season.  The soft, rich agnolotti and the rich earthiness of the truffles paired seamlessly with the malty, hoppy Jubelale .  It was game-on now as Amy turned to the rest of us with a wistful look and said, “I didn’t think I had any love left!”  That pretty much summed up what the rest of us were feeling as well.  But our work was far from done.  The amount of love we all carried would be sorely tested for sure!

"bon bons"Our final “dinner” course was Chef Cathy Whims of Nostrana who paired Obsidian Stout with Cauliflower Sformato with Oregon Black Truffles.  This is where we all went into a bit of sensory overload.  Rich, creamy cauliflower pudding covered in cheese sauce with generous slices of truffle all over.  My kind of food.  Cathy outdid herself with this one!  What can I say about the pairing except, perfection.  Simple, humble, perfection.

Finally, it was time for dessert.  This dish prepared by our own Pastry Chef Jill Ramseier who made a bevy of delights entitled, Sweet & Salty Peanut Butter Bon Bons with Root beer Meringue.  These “bon-bons” were two and quite different.  One traditional bon bon and one of peanut butter ice cream.  The Root beer Meringue had everyone mesmerized and they worked around the chocolate butterfly Jill made to wow the crowd with her presentation.  All this paired with, what else? The Abyss.  Unbelievable!

Afterward, the judges awarded Chef Spak’s agnolotti first prize while the audience favorite was Chef Bachand’s Mason Jar Pie.  In private conversations John Foyston and I agreed that after attending hundreds of beer dinners over our careers (and some very, very good ones) this may have been the best one ever.  If you were there you will know what I mean.  If you missed it, well, you really missed it.  We will look forward to doing more as we continue to push the envelope.  Records are meant to be broken, after all.  Watch our website for announcements of coming events.  You will want to make the next one for sure!

Cheers,

Gary

Links:  http://www.morrisonkids.org/

Morrison Child and Family Services provides a comprehensive range of mental health, substance abuse, juvenile justice, and prevention services. Each year we touch the lives of more than 5,000 children and their families who are struggling with physical and sexual abuse, neglect, exposure to drugs and alcohol, learning disabilities, depression, and serious emotional trauma. Our programs include residential, day treatment, outpatient counseling, parent education, home and school-based programs, and foster care.

Deschutes Brewery Chefs’ Challenge

Monday, December 7th, 2009

Chefs' Challenge Planning Session


EAT GOOD. DRINK GOOD. DO GOOD.

Monday, December 14th from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. Deschutes Brewery’s Portland Pub will present the opportunity for a handful of Portland’s hottest chefs to be pitted against each other in this fierce but friendly competition. Each chef’s creativity will be spotlighted as he/she creates a special dish to pair with a different Deschutes beer. Local celebrity judges will select the best food/beer pairing of the evening while event guests will also have their say via the People’s Choice Award. Proceeds from the event benefit Morrison Child and Family Services.

Competing Chefs to include:
Paul Bachand, Farm to Fork
Adam BergerTen 01 and Tabla Mediterranean Bistro
Pascal Chureau, Fenouil
Kurt Spak, Alba Osteria
Jeff Usinowicz, Deschutes Brewery
Cathy Whims, Nostrana

Only 100 tickets to this event are available. Just $75.00 admission into this private culinary experience will include a serving of each of the 6+ food and beer pairings and the opportunity to vote for the People’s Choice Award.

Register here: http://morrisonkids.org/events/

Morrison Child and Family Services delivers specialized services to children, ages birth through 18, and families coping with adversity and trauma. At the core of our work is a deep respect for the complexity of human nature and human needs–we guide children and their families through difficult issues by creating tailored treatment plans to address individuals needs and help them live productive lives.

Accuracy, Communication, Clarity

Wednesday, November 4th, 2009

Well, lots has been going on around Deschutes Brewery lately. Everyone has been so busy; keeping up with communication sometimes does not get the priority it deserves. I am writing here on the day after The Abyss release. This is probably the most anticipated event of the year here (although Hop Trip day is pretty cool too). People line up early to make sure they can get their supply. It becomes an event of its own. I went down to the pub last night and enjoyed some of the nectar myself. They had the ’07,’08 and ’09 versions all on tap at the same time. Quite the unique experience keeping up with how the product really ages. As we stood by the bar enjoying our libations, some of the brewers and myself were discussing, among the various attributes of The Abyss, the difference between the “vintages”. Certainly, the older versions were more oxidized; after all, that is what the aging process is. But the flavors were knitting together in very interesting ways. The ’09 tasted pretty “linear” to me. All the various flavors were on display in their individualistic forms. The alcohol, roasted malt, molasses, licorice, etc. were easily identifiable. With the older versions, whereas the flavors were all there, they seemed to be creating new flavors as the sum of their parts. The wood was a pleasant background as was the bourbon, although the vanilla characteristics of both were working pleasantly with the tannins in the roasted malt now. The molasses had lost much of its sweetness, leaving earthy flavors that seemed to meld with the licorice in perfect harmony. The longer the liquid sat in my mouth, the more it revealed. As my palate seemed to get more accustomed to the product being there, more layers appeared; dark fruits and spices, roasted herbs and more earth. All in all it was a truly rewarding experience because the time, efforts and patience of so many seemed to be rewarded so appropriately.

We have always believed our Reserve Series beers would age well. But, until we actually could experience it, we would not know for sure, or for how long. I believe they have significant aging capacity, particularly with products like The Abyss and The Dissident because of their acidity and the tannins that provide the structure on which these beers will age gracefully for many years. How fun the discovery!

Our Reserve line of beers has created some very interesting opportunities and some interesting challenges as well. We have attempted, with all our products, to push our own limits in beer making. We have created beers that will age like wine, use many non-traditional ingredients (whatever that means, because tradition is an elusive thing very conducive to selective memory), age in various types of wood barrels and date the bottles in a completely confusing way.

Larry Sidor, our Brewmaster, and I periodically have private tastings where we sit in his office and drink whatever esoteric beer we might have recently come upon, solving all the brewery’s and many of the world’s problems at the same time. Sometimes the beers we drink come from abroad, often from Belgium. As we all know the Belgians can be somewhat creative in the ways they make beers and in the ways they market those beers. As we were sitting there one day examining the label of a particularly unique Belgian offering (no, I don’t remember which one it was) we noticed the date code on the label said “best if consumed after . . . “ The date was set at least a year out (not knowing the bottling date we could not be sure). “What a clever idea!” We had been struggling with date coding our Reserve Series beers because we knew they could cellar well for several years, just how many we could not yet be certain. It is likely, that with some, they may last for a decade or two, or more. So, last year we started date coding our Reserve Series bottles with a “Best After” date that was set one year from bottling. We thought the beers were better off having a year to age and would only improve from there. Well, people were certainly confused. “Is it ok to drink before one year?” “Will it make me sick?” The answers are simple, no it will not make you sick (Unless you drink too much and we all know we drink responsibly, don’t we?) And, yes it is ok to drink before one year. As evidenced by our experience last night, it is not only ok, but terribly delicious as well.

So, our recommendation is as always, buy enough bottles so you can enjoy one now and have others to enjoy as far in to the future as your patience and self discipline will take you. Keep it “cellared” appropriately in the mean time (in a cool, dark place), so your efforts will yield the maximum benefit. Maybe you can put on your own “vertical” tasting for family and friends and show what you really know one day.

Cheers!

Gary Fish, owner

In the Magazines

Monday, October 5th, 2009

October has been good to us!  First, Men’s Journal released their annual America’s Best Beers article recognizing The Dissident, Hop Trip and the Portland Pub.  Then, Sunset came out with a great beer pairing article written by Portland’s Jeff Alworth that pairs Black Butte Porter with shellfish.  And then for the hat trick, the new issue of Dirt Rag hit the stands this past week and their one-page “Beer Me” article about funked up beers featured The Dissident

After reading this I know the million dollar question is going to be, “So where can I find The Dissident?”  Well, The Dissident is probably the least available beer we ever released and the first batch is long gone.  The good news is that the second batch is brewing and will be released sometime in late 2010.  Cheers ~

I Love Food

Thursday, July 9th, 2009

Deschutes Brewery's Executive Chef Matt Neltner

The Cascade Range presides over an event staged on the finely manicured greens of the prestigious Broken Top Golf Club.  Eighteen World-Class Chefs set up kitchens that flank a stage that hosts one of the country’s most innovative violinists.   A dance floor is built and tables, decorated with the bounty of Oregon’s flowers, are set up in the middle under the Central Oregon night sky. A collaboration of man and nature brings us a venue of grand proportions.

Only a setting of such natural beauty and human innovation can host the feast that happens here.  The gates open just as the evening begins to cool.  Foodies and aficionados from Bend and elsewhere make their way into feast.  A selection of Deschutes Brewery’s finest beers and choice wines from Oregon entice them as they pass “Woody”, Deschutes Brewery’s traveling pub.  Built to look like a barrel, aging the craft beers of Deschutes Brewery, Woody is a feat of creativity and engineering that hosts not only the county’s finest beers, but also connoisseurs of the craft.  The bartenders are some of the most knowledgeable people of the brewing process and the flavors the beers contain.  These folks have spent years pouring and tasting beers and pairing their flavors with the foods of the Northwest.  They are the guides who lead us through the event.

 

Beer in hand, guests dressed in summer gowns and sport coats mill about exploring the kitchens set up for the guest chefs.  Do you start with the oyster bar, hosted by Hog Island Oyster Co. or Ken Frank of La Toque’s Boneless Lamb Loin with a Cumin Scented Carrot puree?  Friends see each other surprised, “I didn’t realize I’d see you here”.  They embrace, catch up and inevitably recommend a dish that has to be tasted.  “You have to try Roberto Donna’s Lobster Salad.  It is paired with the La Fleur, a hop-less beer.  They used myrtle, yarrow, orange blossom and other spices to give it its flavor.  The salad is wonderful and with the beer it’s extraordinary”.   This goes on for hours, food, friends, Aaron Meyer’s violin in the background, Oregon wines and Deschutes Brewery’s finest beers all under a sun setting over the Cascades.

 

Warmed with beer and palettes satiated by culinary delights, the guests settle down to the tables.  Aaron Meyers finishes his set and a new band takes the stage.  Under a starry sky the dancing begins.  Partners take to the dance floor; Chefs leave their kitchens to talk with diners.  The night is in full swing.  Conversation and merriment fill the air.  Favorite dishes are discussed, past meals are remembered old friends are found and new ones made.  This is what dining is about.  The Sagebrush Feast again lives up to its reputation.  A fabulous night is had by all and all for a great cause.  The Deschutes Children’s Foundation, the chefs, the hosts and the guests all leave better for the experience.  The twenty-first anniversary of the Sagebrush Classic is a night to be talked about and remembered until next year.

Matt Neltner, Executive Chef

Spring/Summer Menu Inspiration

Saturday, June 13th, 2009

Green Lakes Organic AleLast week I pulled from every corner of my arsenal of clothing to combat the weather; ski jacket, shorts, rain gear, flip-flops and the requisite fleece, so I know that spring is here. Spring is an exciting time for us here at the Bend PubCinder Cone Red is released, we begin our planning of the Sagebrush Classic, our annual golf tournament and feast benefiting the Deschutes Children’s Foundation, and we start gearing up for the summer tourist season. We also put out our spring and summer menu.

Menu changes are an exciting part of the job of being a Chef, especially a spring menu. We get to think about summer crops with beautiful, fresh produce and vegetables. Trips to the farmer’s market offer weekly inspiration and the summer fishing season will soon begin. Menu Changes are often challenging too. It is a delicate balance of offering something new without removing a favorite. Someone’s feelings are always hurt.

We start the process with an “anything is possible” brainstorming session. Nothing gets the creative juices flowing like one of Paul’s (our brewer at the Pub) specialty brews.

I found the Pilsner to be especially inspiring this year. The blend of Czech and German Malts add a complexity to this pilsners’ crisp and refreshing flavor. The flavors sing summer to me. Halfway through my pint and my mind is on the lawn at Les Schwab enjoying a Sunday concert. A salad would be great with this beer.

How about a spinach salad? That sounds good. What kind of dressing? Something light I think. Let’s make a Green Lakes Vinaigrette, nice and aromatic, and light on the palate. Green Lakes Organic Ale is perfect for this, the blend of organic malts, barley and seven types of hops add a sense of the high Cascades. What else? Pondhopper cheese, the semi-soft goat cheese from Tumalo Farms. This cheese’s rich flavor will help balance the sharpness of the vinaigrette. And for a final touch, candied Munich Malts. One of the staples of our beers coated with sugar and spice and roasted in our bakery. Now that’s a salad for summer.

We go through this process several times creating dishes inspired by summer and the bounty of ingredients available in Oregon. Some of the other dishes we have created include a Trout Po’ boy with Idaho trout and house pickled vegetables, fresh fish tacos on Wednesday, and marbled cheesecake with vanilla beans and hibiscus. Pair these with Paul’s amazing brews including his newest creation; La Fleur, a beer made without the use of hops, the bitterness comes from an amazing assortment of herbs including mugwort and milkthistle, and you have a selection that should satisfy for summer.

Cheers,

Matt Neltner, Executive Chef

Twilight Ale – Summertime Magic

Friday, May 29th, 2009

Twilight Summer Seasonal

The long, warm evenings in Central Oregon once again herald the return of Twilight Ale, Deschutes Brewery’s award winning summer seasonal. This hot weather quencher is available Memorial Day weekend through September in 6-packs, 12-packs, and on draft. Now your idea of summer fun might be matching the hatch, honing your short game, or flying down single-track on the edge of sanity. We believe Twilight Ale will make hanging out next to the Weber and reflecting on these pursuits that much more enjoyable.The use of Cara-Pils and Carastan malts lends Twilight Ale a subtle, wafer like body. This is at once offset and complemented by citrus and floral aromas. These are brought about with late additions of whole flower Cascade, Amarillo, and Tettnang hops. The overall result is a crisp, effervescent, highly drinkable ale that will pair beautifully with picnic classics like barbecued ribs, and salads with lemon and dill.

Twilight Ale was named for that magical time of day when shadows are long, laughter comes easily, and you really just want the moment to last forever. One more cast, one more putt, one more leg of the trail, just one more Twilight Ale. So keep on chasing down those low slung rays of summer light, and we’ll keep doing things the Deschutes way, deal?

Cheers,

John “Abe” Abraham, Brewer

Brewery Burger Perfection

Monday, May 4th, 2009

Growing up in the Midwest, I consider the hamburger to be the quintessential American food. When done right it displays the best America has to offer. It is opportunity for its economy and accessibility to all. It is thrift in that its meat is often a grind of cuts that are too small for steaks and roasts. The rich flavored beef comes from cattle fed on grains and grasses grown on windswept prairies and raised by cowboys. The vegetable set, a sweet-hot onion, crisp lettuce and a juicy tart tomato, is a complex delight harvested by farmers who settled this land. Place all this on a bun made by bakers who are drawing on a thousand years of collective experience and you have an American classic. Follow it with a great beer and you have perfection at the table.

Deschutes Brewery displayed such a prowess for the hamburger on my first visit that it now seems inevitable that I would eventually be the Chef there. It was in the spring of 2002 and a perfect Central Oregon day. It was about 3 o’clock in the afternoon. The room was lively but not overcrowded, (A great time to visit if you love the beer and food but want to avoid the crowds). The sun shone through the windows illuminating a room that is reminiscent of an English Pub. The smell of malts and barley steeping in the mash filled the air as the brewers worked their magic.

I dressed my cheeseburger and bit in. My teeth made their way through a soft bun smothered with Brewers Mustard, ketchup, and mayo. I felt the crunch of lettuce and onion. I tasted the onion’s sweet heat as I tore through tomato and beef. I could taste the juice of the Borlen Beef as it coated my tongue with its rich, natural goodness, and I knew. This burger had been cooked perfectly. The cooks had readied my repast to perfection. I wiped the juices from my chin and washed down my bite with a pull of Mirror Pond Pale Ale. My tongue was in bliss. Even the simplest dishes are elevated to the sublime when executed with respect and precision. This meal set the bar for such execution. It is the standard I use in leading an amazing team of cooks at Deschutes Brewery.

Cheers,

Matt Neltner, Executive Chef