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Accuracy, Communication, Clarity

Well, lots has been going on around Deschutes Brewery lately. Everyone has been so busy; keeping up with communication sometimes does not get the priority it deserves. I am writing here on the day after The Abyss release. This is probably the most anticipated event of the year here (although Hop Trip day is pretty cool too). People line up early to make sure they can get their supply. It becomes an event of its own. I went down to the pub last night and enjoyed some of the nectar myself. They had the ’07,’08 and ’09 versions all on tap at the same time. Quite the unique experience keeping up with how the product really ages. As we stood by the bar enjoying our libations, some of the brewers and myself were discussing, among the various attributes of The Abyss, the difference between the “vintages”. Certainly, the older versions were more oxidized; after all, that is what the aging process is. But the flavors were knitting together in very interesting ways. The ’09 tasted pretty “linear” to me. All the various flavors were on display in their individualistic forms. The alcohol, roasted malt, molasses, licorice, etc. were easily identifiable. With the older versions, whereas the flavors were all there, they seemed to be creating new flavors as the sum of their parts. The wood was a pleasant background as was the bourbon, although the vanilla characteristics of both were working pleasantly with the tannins in the roasted malt now. The molasses had lost much of its sweetness, leaving earthy flavors that seemed to meld with the licorice in perfect harmony. The longer the liquid sat in my mouth, the more it revealed. As my palate seemed to get more accustomed to the product being there, more layers appeared; dark fruits and spices, roasted herbs and more earth. All in all it was a truly rewarding experience because the time, efforts and patience of so many seemed to be rewarded so appropriately.

We have always believed our Reserve Series beers would age well. But, until we actually could experience it, we would not know for sure, or for how long. I believe they have significant aging capacity, particularly with products like The Abyss and The Dissident because of their acidity and the tannins that provide the structure on which these beers will age gracefully for many years. How fun the discovery!

Our Reserve line of beers has created some very interesting opportunities and some interesting challenges as well. We have attempted, with all our products, to push our own limits in beer making. We have created beers that will age like wine, use many non-traditional ingredients (whatever that means, because tradition is an elusive thing very conducive to selective memory), age in various types of wood barrels and date the bottles in a completely confusing way.

Larry Sidor, our Brewmaster, and I periodically have private tastings where we sit in his office and drink whatever esoteric beer we might have recently come upon, solving all the brewery’s and many of the world’s problems at the same time. Sometimes the beers we drink come from abroad, often from Belgium. As we all know the Belgians can be somewhat creative in the ways they make beers and in the ways they market those beers. As we were sitting there one day examining the label of a particularly unique Belgian offering (no, I don’t remember which one it was) we noticed the date code on the label said “best if consumed after . . . “ The date was set at least a year out (not knowing the bottling date we could not be sure). “What a clever idea!” We had been struggling with date coding our Reserve Series beers because we knew they could cellar well for several years, just how many we could not yet be certain. It is likely, that with some, they may last for a decade or two, or more. So, last year we started date coding our Reserve Series bottles with a “Best After” date that was set one year from bottling. We thought the beers were better off having a year to age and would only improve from there. Well, people were certainly confused. “Is it ok to drink before one year?” “Will it make me sick?” The answers are simple, no it will not make you sick (Unless you drink too much and we all know we drink responsibly, don’t we?) And, yes it is ok to drink before one year. As evidenced by our experience last night, it is not only ok, but terribly delicious as well.

So, our recommendation is as always, buy enough bottles so you can enjoy one now and have others to enjoy as far in to the future as your patience and self discipline will take you. Keep it “cellared” appropriately in the mean time (in a cool, dark place), so your efforts will yield the maximum benefit. Maybe you can put on your own “vertical” tasting for family and friends and show what you really know one day.

Cheers!

Gary Fish, owner

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8 Responses to “Accuracy, Communication, Clarity”

  1. Ben C. Says:

    Is it better to cellar beer standing upright or on its side? For that matter, is there anything else I should know about laying down beer for long periods of time?

  2. christopher brooks Says:

    Hi Gary,

    Your remarks re Abyss certainly had me regretting that my recent travels out West didn’t include any stops where that beer was available. I was quite delighted to find a number of your other brands in Idaho Falls, where I stocked up on the way into Yellowstone N.P. Yet while I savored the milk chocolaty smoothness of Black Butte after several hikes, and rewarded myself with Jubelale, as well (another outstanding label!), I can’t help but think that Abyss (even a young sample) would have served me well when the temperature dropped below 20 degrees, as it did most nights. Oh, and as a cribbage aficionado from ‘way back,’ I also regret that your board promotion omits Connecticut (my home state) from participation in that program.

    A final note re your observations of the ‘best after’ label on a Belgian beer: EU regulations require brewers (and other food producers) to list ‘best BEFORE’ dates, but Belgian brewers can be as ornery as some of their American counterparts, and some have objected to the ‘best before,’ noting that with care in crafting, a fair amount of alcohol and yeast in the bottle, their products will actually improve with age. Hence, some brewers (e.g. Orval) use a ‘best before’ date that is exactly five years (or more) out from bottling, while others have deliberately jabbed a finger in the eye of bureacracy with their ‘best after’ labels. Probably only a matter of time before certain cheese producers follow suit….

    As always, your products are a joy to imbibe. Keep the great efforts going!

    –CB

  3. Gary Fish Says:

    Chris,
    Thanks for the comments, and the background on the Belgians. I’ve always admired their independent spirit, particularly as it applies to their beer!
    Let me know if/when you get back in the area.
    Gary

  4. Gary Fish Says:

    Ben,
    We get asked this a lot. The cellaring on the side thing applies primarily to wine because of the cork and if the wine is stored on its side the cork will stay moist. That is not necessary with The Abyss as there is no cork. In fact, it is better to stand it up as there is less surface area of the beer exposed to oxygen than there would be if it is on its side.
    The most important part is to store the beer in a dark, cool place, one that does not fluctuate in temperature. Your garage is probably a bad place as the temperature can vary widely winter to summer. The crawl space under your house or a dark closet in a back bedroom would be much better.
    Enjoy the ride,
    Gary

  5. Adam Says:

    Thanks for the backstory on the “best after” date — stuff like that makes the blog fascinating for a Deschutes lover. I have a case of Mirror Mirror aging in the back of my pantry right now and hope to do the same with The Abyss if my distributor in Vegas can get his hands on some. Fingers crossed. Keep the insights coming …

  6. Jason Says:

    Just curious – but is there a true Best By date? Assuming I have unlimited willpower (which I probably don’t), should it be consumed within five years? Is that wax seal simply good for as long as I can stand it?

    Thank you for the insights – I’m getting ready to crack an ‘09 Abyss myself…and then probably go buy more for saving.

  7. Don Mc Donald Says:

    Last weekend I shared a bottle of Abyss 2007 vintage with my brother-in-law. I have to say it was one of the best beer experiences I have ever had. The beer really aged well and was very drinkable even with 11% alchol, the oakey and burbon flavors were sublte and really melded well with the licorice and big chocolate. Thank you for a great beer. Keep up the good work and I will be buying more. CHEERS!

  8. Deschutes Says:

    Light and extreme temperature fluctuation are the enemies of beer. Your method should work, just let the beer warm up before you drink it. Cheers.

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